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Black Hills Adventures

Anyone who thinks of South Dakota as nothing more than miles of endless prairie has obviously never visited the Black Hills, in the western part of the state. The land here is rich with natural beauty and steeped in history.

Rising like an island out of the surrounding prairie, the Black Hills cover approximately 6,000 square miles, about the same as the state of Delaware. With eighteen peaks that soar over 7,000 feet in elevation, rugged gorges and canyons, and blanketed in a thick carpet of pines jeweled with rushing streams and clear blue lakes, the Black Hills are a vacationland with unlimited opportunities for very visitor.

Here you will find activities to suit every interest, from camping, hiking, and fishing, to monuments of gigantic proportions, historic Old West towns, and abundant wildlife. As local tourism slogans proclaim, the Black Hills really are beyond all expectations.

The largest city in the region is Rapid City, and here you will find interesting museums, a wide range of restaurants, and every service a visitor could want or need.

Called the Shrine of Democracy, Mount Rushmore National Memorial is the showpiece of the Black Hills. The brainchild of sculptor Gutzon Borglum, the four gigantic faces of American presidents George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and Abraham Lincoln is a symbol of their ideas of freedom and democracy upon which this country was founded.

Work on the colossal carving began in October 4, 1927 and continued off and on for fourteen years, interrupted by weather, lack of funding, and the looming onset of World War II. Gutzon Borglum was traveling to Washington , D.C. to plead for more government funding for the project when he fell ill and died in Chicago on March 6, 1941. By the end of October of that year work on the mountain had ceased. Though the project was never finished to the artist’s intentions, Mount Rushmore is considered complete in that no further carving will be done, despite suggestions over the years to add new faces to the mountainside.  

The total cost was just under one million dollars, 85% of which was paid by the Federal government, with local businesses, corporations, and private citizens contributing the balance. During the early days of the project, South Dakota schoolchildren contributed their pennies, nickels, dimes, and quarters, totaling about $1,700.

Mount Rushmore is truly gigantic. Each of the four presidential faces measures approximately 60 feet from the top of the head to the chin. The eyes measure eleven feet across, the noses 20 to 21 feet long, and the mouths are eighteen feet across. The faces are scaled to a figure 468 feet tall. The full sculpture is 468 feet across.  

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A crew of almost 400 men and women labored under the often-volatile Borglund’s direction, drilling, blasting, and chiseling away at the granite face of the mountain to create the sculpture. Their work was dangerous and difficult. Hanging on the mountain face in swing seats suspended from the top, they wrestled heavy equipment and worked in all kinds of weather, all the while breathing in copious amounts of rock dust that would lead to serious illnesses for many later in life. Given the harsh conditions they labored under, it is amazing that no one was killed during the construction project. There were accidents; the worst consisting of falls that resulted in broken limbs and ribs. 

In the early days of the project, the workers climbed a wooden stairway of some 760 steps to get to work every day, carrying their tools with them. By 1936 a tram had been installed to carry workers and supplies to the top of the mountain. Many workers did not trust the tram, their fears no doubt reinforced when an accident in June, 1936  injured five men, and they continued to climb the steps to work each morning, wearily drudging back down at the end of a long, hard day.

The men chosen to have their likenesses carved into the mountain represent the first 150 years of American history. Each president immortalized on the mountain represents an important American virtue or event – George Washington signifies the struggle for independence and the birth of the nation; Thomas Jefferson recalls the territorial expansion of the country; Abraham Lincoln represents the permanent union of the states, and equality for all of our citizens; and Theodore Roosevelt represents the 20th Century role of the United States in world affairs and the rights of the common man.

Every year over three million visitors come to Mount Rushmore, making it the number one tourist attraction in the region. Parking is available in a complex operated by a private concession under contract to the National Park Service. Parking fees are $8 per car, which is good for one calender year. Since no public funds are used to operate the parking concession, passports such as the National Parks Pass, Golden Age, Golden Access, and Golden Eagle passes are not accepted.

The National Parks Service Visitor Center includes displays and videos on the construction of Mount Rushmore , and a gift shop and refreshments are available from private concessions at the memorial.

While Mount Rushmore is certainly awesome in itself, the Black Hills have much more to offer visitors. The world’s largest sculpture project is ongoing at the Crazy Horse Memorial, a few miles from Mount Rushmore. Inspired by Chief Standing  Bear, the monument is being created as a tribute to the Indians of North America.

The old mining town of Keystone, just outside the Mount Rushmore National  Memorial, is now a bustling tourist destination, with shops, restaurants, and art galleries. Here you will find such attractions as the National Presidential Wax Museum and Rushmore Cave, and you can book a helicopter sightseeing tour or a ride on the Black Hills Central Railroad.

If you enjoy spotting wildlife, take a ride on any of the local back roads, or drive the unforgettable 70 mile long Peter Norbeck National Scenic Highway (South Dakota Route 87 and US Highway 16A Loop), where you can expect to see mountain goats, deer, and free ranging buffalo.

West of Rapid City and Mount Rushmore you will come to Sturgis, famous for the annual motorcycle gathering every August. From Sturgis, it is a short drive to the historic Old West town of Deadwood , home to such luminaries as Wild Bill Hickok, Potato Creek Johnny, and Calamity Jane.

It its heyday, Deadwood was a wild place where fortunes were won and lost, where gunfights were commonplace, and where history was made on an almost daily basis. Most of the famous personalities of the Old West either lived in or passed thorough Deadwood at one time or another. It is said that the infamous Gem Theatre, a saloon, brothel, and gambling hall operated by the nefarious Al Swearengen, raked in $5,000 a night.

William Butler “Wild Bill” Hickok was an Indian fighter, frontier lawman, and Civil War spy, but by the time he came to Deadwood his career was in decline. A stint with Buffalo Bill Cody’s Wild West Show did not work out, his eyesight was failing, he was haunted by the accidental shooting of his deputy and best friend while serving as a lawman in Kansas , and he had a new wife to support. He hoped to do so at the gambling tables of Deadwood.

A target for any eager gunslinger hoping to make a name for himself, Hickok had certain habits that helped him survive in the dangerous days he lived in. He always drank his beer with his left hand, keeping his right hand free to draw his gun if needed. He also insisted on sitting with his back against the wall whenever playing cards, so nobody could sneak up behind him.

On the evening of August 2, 1876 he joined some friends in a card game at Deadwood’s Number 10 Saloon. The only open seat put him with his back to the room, and Wild Bill tried to get someone to switch places with him, but his pals laughed and told him he was among friends and not to worry. It was a fatal mistake. While Wild Bill was concentrating on his card game, a low life named Jack McCall slipped up behind him and shot him in the back of the head, killing him instantly. In his hand he still clutched his cards, pairs of black aces and eights, forever after known as the “deadman’s hand.” McCall was quickly brought to trial, where he claimed he murdered Hickok because he had killed his brother. He was acquitted, but then began to brag that he had gotten away with murder. Further investigation revealed that McCall never even had a brother for Wild Bill to kill, and McCall was tried again and hung in Yankton, South Dakota on March 1, 1877.  

Another famous resident of Deadwood was Martha Jane Canary, better known as Calamity Jane. Much has been written about this cowgirl queen, and depending on which story you choose to believe, Calamity Jane was either a heroic or tragic figure. Most reports say she was a hard drinking, foul talking muleskinner who dressed in men’s clothing, was frequently drunk and rowdy, and told tall tales that all embellished her reputation.

It is known that she was married several times, possibly without the benefit of divorce from one husband before she took on another. During a smallpox epidemic in Deadwood and the surrounding mining camps, Calamity Jane devoted herself to caring for the sick miners, and many credited their survival to her ministrations and called her an angel for the rest of their days.

 Jane claimed that she and Wild Bill Hickok were lovers, but all indications are that the famous gunfighter considered her a nuisance and an embarrassment and leave her claims in serious doubt. After she died in 1903, her last wish was carried out and Calamity Jane was buried in Deadwood’s Mount Moriah Cemetery next to Wild Bill, who is probably still spinning in his grave.

Over time the mines played out, a series of fires and floods devastated Deadwood, and much of what was left consisted of boarded up buildings and ruins. In 1987 a group called Deadwood You Bet Committee was formed to work to legalize gambling in Deadwood. Many thought it was a lost cause, but two years later state laws were changed to make Deadwood the only town between Nevada and Atlantic City with legal gambling. Promoters and investors descended on the town, and today Deadwood’s casinos have revived the local economy and brought  new life to the old boomtown.

Today in Deadwood you can gamble, tour the old hotspots made famous by outlaws and gunfighters, and experience a bit of the Old West, even though it may be modernized and have an affect that is more Hollywood than the original Deadwood. Still, it is an interesting place and well worth spending some time to get to know. There are several tours available in Deadwood, and a stop at the Visitor Center on the north side of town is a great place to begin your visit and learn about the many options visitors have to see the town and surrounding areas.

No matter what you are looking for – towering monuments, historical sites, natural beauty, glittering casino fun, or theme parks to entertain kids young and old, alike, it’s all waiting for you in South Dakota’s Black Hills. One visit was not nearly enough for us, and we’ll be back.

 

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