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Where Heroes Sleep

The United States has more than one hundred national cemeteries, but ask any American the name of the national cemetery, and you will almost certainly get one answer – Arlington. Here, on 624 acres of rolling Virginia hills, rest over 275,000 American servicemen and their family members.

The land that is now Arlington National Cemetery was originally an estate owned by Mary Custis, the wife of Robert E. Lee. During the Civil War, when Lee resigned his commission in the United States Army to lead the Army of the Confederacy, the estate was confiscated and the land was put to use as a cemetery for the growing number of war casualties. By the end of the war, over 16,000 graves dotted the green Virginia hillsides.

To walk through Arlington’s granite and marble markers and memorials is to walk through American history. Here you will find the graves of presidents, generals, and admirals, along with those of common seamen and unknown Army privates. Read the markers and you will read of service in the Civil War, the Spanish American War, World Wars I and II, Korea, Vietnam, and Desert Storm. And the cemetery continues to grow. About 24 burials are conducted at Arlington every weekday.

A funeral with full military honors is a moving occasion. An honor guard accompanies the coffin, which is draped with an American flag and drawn by matched horses. An Army band plays solemn marches, while muffled drums beat a slow cadence. Before the coffin is lowered into the ground, three rifle volleys are fired and a bugler plays the mournful notes of Taps. The ceremony closes with a uniformed member of the honor guard presenting the coffin’s flag to the next of kin.

The men and women buried in Arlington National Cemetery come to their final rest without regard to race, creed, or rank. Enlisted men share the hillsides with top ranking officers. Their service to their country made them equals.

Indeed, while there are many handsome gravestones in Arlington, many of the most famous graves are adorned only with simple government-issue markers. World War I general John J. Pershing’s grave has the same simple marker as those of the men who served under him. Medal of Honor recipient and World War II’s most decorated soldier, Audie Murphy, has a simple marker that belies his fame as a war hero and later a Hollywood movie star.

There are many heroes and famous figures from history interred at Arlington. Among them are admiral and explorer Richard E. Byrd, boxer Joe Louis, President William Howard Taft, President John F. Kennedy, and his brother Robert.

Perhaps the most famous grave at Arlington is the Tomb of the Unknowns, where unidentified servicemen from World War I, World War II, and Korea are buried under an inscription that reads “Here rests in honored glory an American soldier known but to God.”. A sentinel from the Third U.S. Infantry dressed in razor-sharp uniform maintains a silent vigil at the tomb 24 hours a day, every day of the year. The guard paces exactly 21 steps down a mat in front of the tomb, pauses for 21 seconds, and then returns 21 paces to his original position, in an ongoing procession that never changes, except for the ritual Changing of the Guard, a ceremony steeped in tradition.

There are many memorable monuments and statues at Arlington. Very near the Tomb of the Unknowns is the mast from the USS Maine, sunk in Havana harbor, which sparked the Spanish American War. Close by are memorials to the crew of the space shuttle Challenger and to servicemen killed in an attempt to rescue American hostages held in Iran.

One of the best known memorials in Arlington is actually outside the cemetery’s main grounds, the famous statue of Marines raising the flag on Iwo Jima during World War II. The larger than life statue, with its huge American flag, is a proud tribute to the men and women who wear Marine blue.

John F. Kennedy’s grave, with the Eternal Flame, is beside that of his wife Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and the Kennedy’s infant son. Brother and Attorney General Robert F. Kennedy is buried a few steps away.

Arlington House, the Lee family home, sits on a hill overlooking the cemetery, with a spectacular view of Washington, D.C. across the Potomac River. Known today as the Robert E. Lee Memorial, Arlington House is administered by the National Parks Service and contains many original Lee family artifacts and heirlooms. A Parks Service guide greets you at the door and explains the history of the home, and then visitors can take a self-guided tour. The walk up the hill to Arlington House is rather steep, so wear comfortable shoes.

There is no charge to visit Arlington National Cemetery. No privately owned vehicles are allowed in the cemetery, but there is a visitor parking area, and a special shuttle conducts guided tours of the cemetery for a fee. For those not wanting to drive to Arlington, the Metro subway system has a stop at the cemetery. Visitors can also pick up a free map and guide at the cemetery’s Visitor Center and explore the cemetery on foot. Signs are posted through the cemetery pointing the way to the most visited spots. Please remember that Arlington is a national shrine, not a place for recreation, picnics, or for children to play. Always respect the memory of those buried here.

Arlington National Cemetery is open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. October through March, and 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. April through September. The Visitors Center has a video on the cemetery’s history, displays, and a small bookstore. Visit Arlington National Cemetery and I think that you, like we did, will come away with a feeling of gratitude for the men and women who sleep here, heroes all.

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